Setsukeian's farming life...

SETSUKEIAN
The enchanting organic farm of Setsukeian
WWOOF Period: 1st May to 20th May

I am living each day in Setsukeian with a joyful heart and wake up with a smile in my heart. It is so refreshing the air, and the sound of the birds breaking the silence of the forests in dawn. I wake up between 5.30am to 6.00am as I like to spend some time reading or writing before starting of task. The window in my room looks out to the forest behind. In Japan, it is already bright at this timing.

Schedule here is quite routine. Morning task begins at 7am, either helping in the kitchen to prepare breakfast or cleaning the toilet and feeding the only rooster and hen, checking if mother hen lays any egg for the day. 7.30am to 8.00am is breakfast together with Kei san and Setsu san in the Buddha room (dinning room), followed by washing up.

WWOOFers start working in the farm or indoor from 8.30am to 12 noon, with a half hour break in between. Then it is preparation for lunch and a hearty lunch time together outdoor under the wooden shelther build by WWOOFers. It is really relaxing and comfortable having lunch outdoors. After washing up the dishes, it is work time in the farm or indoor again from 1.30pm to 5.00pm, with another half hour break.

We will have one and a half hour rest time here, take our showers and take turn to use the internet on Kei san's computer. At 6.30pm, we help in the kitchen to prepare dinner and dinner starts at 7.00pm. Dinner is one of the best time as everyone is more relaxed, not worrying about having to rush to work. We also use ozen table set (samurai table) only for dinner and Setsu san will prepare more dishes too. Kei san will share about his farm, his family or his personal life and he likes to find out more about us, understanding our culture and country. I learn much about Japanese manners from Kei-san, who believes strongly in observing greetings before leaving to work in the fields, returning home, before and after meals.

When I first arrived, Juliane the American WWOOFer just arrived in the morning. We got along real well and she has been helpful with helping me in understanding Japanese better. We did different tasks; weeding, seperating ancient rice grains, planting seeds and seedlings, making mochi the traditional Japanese way, helping in kneading bread for Setsu san, working in the rice field leveling the mud beneath the water. The latter is tough.

We worked well together. Before Juliane left after a week, she passed me a crocheted handerchief she made personally while WWOOFing here, togehter with a short letter. I wrote on a 3D card I bought from Taiwan for her. I was touched by her sincerity as she is the first WWOOFer I have worked with thus far, who wrote me something. I will write a card to all the WWOOFers I got to know and to the hosts too. 

While Juliane left to pursue her one month course in the famous Kawashima Art School in Kyoto, I continued to work on the farm under Keisans guidance. We worked on the vegetable farm, shovelling earth to make yama or mountains  for each young potato plant, to prepare space and nutrients for the roots to grow. Dry straws were nested around the plant and the soil to prevent the soil from getting dry from the sun and discourage too much weed growing. 

During one of the breaks, Kei san shared about how he is really happy with his life now. He plays the role of a monk, a farmer, an entrepreneur and a guest  house owner. I apologised to him for being so raw in the tasks required in the farm and not being fast and strong enough. He was very assuring and reassure me he appreciates hardwork and focus from WWOOFers and encouraged me that I have been doing fine. He appreciates me working hard and being focused while working despite my petite frame. Having so many years of having WWOOFers from different countries and culture helping out in his farm, he  has seen well built WWOOFers who cannot tolerate hard work and the working hours. Westerners value rest time while Asians are used to be expected to work long hours in our society. From his observation, Asian female WWOOFers are hardworking and not afraid of hard work. He however, feels that young Japanese men are lacking in this aspect from the ladies. 

His words and patience becomes a driven force in my days working in his farm. Setsusans dedication and deligience in supporting her husband and making sumptous meals for us everyday despite her tiredness... all these motivate me to do an extra mile for them.

Once while helping Setsu san at the garden, she passed me a mountain vegetable she plucked from the forest. It is called hooki, crunchy stem with a tinge of sourness. Very refreshing eaten fresh and raw. We sat near the little stream that runs through their house for a short break. Through Setsu san, I was inspired to pick up cooking. She only started learning to cook and bake only when she turned 50. Age really does not matter. Determination and passion are what make things possible. Many times, during conversations at meals, I found Setsu san a deep woman, with a quiet intelligence. She speaks and understand less English that Kei san, but she tends to understand our intention and mind more. Being a master in vine craft, herself, I feel she is a very humble and low profile woman. Many times, I misunderstood what Setsu san wants me to do, especially when helping in the kitchen. I think I have spoiled some of her dishes or made it not the way she originally wanted. However, she has never lost patience or her cool. Despite being an artist herself, she is not a perfectionist. Thats what makes her generiosity in accepting mistakes and imperfections from someone like me. Much to learn from this lady...

Despite his age, Kei san continues to be interested in learning English so as to communicate with and understand WWOOFers better. He has a dictionary next to him, and together with his magnifying glass, he will search for the English meaning for the Japanese word which he has difficulty expressing in English.

Through them, I sees the spirit of living life through constant learning. 

Days in Setsukeien are very enriching and never boring for me. Totally immersed in the beauty of nature, touching the earth and plants everyday... it has a unexplanable effect on me. A quiet contentment. On the last week during my stay, Dave, the Canadian WWOOFer who came a few days after Juliane left, and I got to work on the rice field, planting rice seedling. It is a dream come true for me... planting rice, experiencing being in muddy water, back bent and working for hours planting each fragile seedling. It is tiring but the experience makes me appreciate having rice as our daily staple. It means a lot to me. Each grain of rice is so precious, with much sweat and hard work from the hands that cultivate and harvest them.

I will miss Setsukeien and I make a personal promise to myself to return to this little village of quiet charm again. Setsusan asks of me to bring my mum the next time, to stay as a guest. She reminds me of that again before I make my last farewell to her, after helping her at their stall in the flea market in Kyoto. Matta... We shall meet again, for sure.

The shorter house is where WWOOFers stay, in the upper level. On the first level is where the guest room is.

The window in my room when I first arrived, looking into the forest...

Behind the house, close to the forest are rows of logs where shitake mushrooms grow . . . I got to pluck them with Setsu san and prepare dinner with the large mushrooms.

The mighty trees....

and the tiny plants growing under their shades...

The Buddha room, or the dinning room. I remember Keisan seated there, right in the center of the room while I brought my WWOOF permit form to him for a brief orientation... He is like a Zen monk . . . it turns out he became a monk a few years ago.

 the colourful ancient rice

Juliane...we were seperating broken rice grains from the good ones on this good day, outdoor. She is a very talented young lady in arts and a very sensible and easy going person too.

I look forward to opening the metal tin box during break time... not knowing what Setsu san has prepared for us...

Sometimes it is biscuits, sometimes it is delicious cinammon candies....

 

Believe it or not, it is my first time kneading bread. Here bread is made from the ancient rice grains. I love the bread Setsusan bakes with natural yeast she makes herself. This dough has risen.

Setsu... engraved on the clay stove 

  

Making mochi the traditional Japanese way. Made from freshly cooked ancient white and some black rice, pounded with the heavy wooden hammer till it becomes sticky like a dough. We have it with sesame seed, red beans... delicious! Most of it will be made into a long dough, cut into slices when harden and place in the sun to dry. These slices will be fried to make mochi cookies.

One kind of the mountain vegetables found in the forest. This is hooki, very refreshing as I chomped on it raw, freshly pricked by Setsu san.

Mountain vegetables picked by Setsu san daily early every morning in the forest behind. They have them for their meals and to sell in their shop too.

 

Warabi, a mountain vegetable we have quite frequently in our meals. Lovely shape.

Sushi rice, chirashi sushi, prepared by Setsu san, garnished with leaves from this plant which I forget the name... taste like basil.

Setsu san sharing about the hordes of fireflies which will come during early July with the guests, Sarsi and Marcel. They are classmates with Juliane in the Kawashima Art School, stayed here for a night to learn vine weaving from Setsu san. 

The poem written by Keisan... on the wall at the entrance to the house. Juliane and I helped to translate it into English after his explanation. 

When we see a blossoming flower, it gives joy to our heart.

Remember too its roots that helps it grow.

The home of the only rooster and hen... The rooster crows every morning at dawn, about 3ish at times... the hen lays an egg on most day for the family. I will say arigatou gozaimasu to her on mornings when I feed them and collect the egg.

The potato plants... weeding, building yama around it with more earth, covering the soil with straws to prevent it from hardening from the sun and discourage weeds. In organic farms, weeds florish speedily as no chemical is used to prevent them from growing.

The rice seedlings we have been watering daily...

till they grow to about 15 cm tall to be ready for planting.

Dave, the Canadian WWOOFer who arrives a few days after Juliane left. Keisan often refers him as my younger brother. The first rice field of the three we worked on. He is faster than me in planting rice. Nice to have someone who speaks English WWOOFing together. He learn basic Japanese language on his own. 

Taken by Juliane...Kei-san fixing his real machine to level the padi field while I watched from behind.

 I recieved this picture from Kei-san when he emailed me when I have left his farm and WWOOFing in Asaba Art Square. It was when I was planting the rice seedling in his padi field and Kei-san called out my name and took this shot.

 

Pictures on the door...

 

The handkerchief crocheted by Juliane and the note from her. The note reminds me of my dear friend, Nur, who will write a letter once a month to me, leaving them on my desk in the teachers office.

Me on the swing when work ends...The swings were build by former WWOOFers with woods chopped from the trees in the forest. Keisan wanted them for children to play on as sometimes, they have school children visiting them to experience farm life for a day.

And a real pleasant surprise a few days before I leave SetsuKei-en. A parcel from Singapore! My dear little sister, Angelia sent me some snacks from Singapore, a card with heart-warming words and photos of Haley and the twins, Skylar and Paige. I was really touched....

View from the top of the mountains around the little village. The people here are all farmers...

Setsu san at the Toji Temple flea market in Kyoto city on the day I left Setsukei-en. I went to her stall and was glad to see her before our final farewell... for now...

The WWOOFers flag... Keisan asks of every single WWOOFer to write on the large canvas and his WWOOFer book before we leave. He has photos of each WWOOFer developed and pasted on our personal page. He wants to remember every one till the day he gets real old and forgetful.

My words on the flag.... En, which is Yuan in Chinese, means fate. Keisan and Setsu san believe that every WWOOFer  comes to Setsukei-an because of fate. They value each encounter and meeting....

I will be back again, to SetsuKei-en.... thank you for the beautiful memories.

SETSUKEIAN
Sazae Town, Hiyoshi, Kyoto Prefecture
The enchanting and beautiful organic farm of Setsukeian
WWOOF Period: 1st May to 20th May

Finally, I settled down to write in my blog again.
I am now in this enchanting farm called SetsuKeian in this small town, all the way in the mountains. The nearest supermarket is about 20min by car. In Sazae town, there are only about 80 families. Very small population here, an average of 2 person to a family.
That means the residents here are mainly elderlys who live alone or as couple.

I arrived here on 1st May and this is already my 9th day here. The warmth and kindness shown by Kei san and his wife Setsu san are unexpectedly generous. Both are in their late 60s yet healthy and independent to work in their farm. Every thing here is organic. They grow their own vegetables, pluck mountain vegetables to prepare dishes. They have their own rice farm which specialises in growing ancient rice. Most of the people here are farmers but Kei san's is the only organic farm.

Setsukeian is the last house in a small community of about 12 families here. They are closer to the woods and the first to recieve water from the stream. It runs through their land and that's where we get water to water the plants. Very clear and clean, one can see little fishes and crabs in it. Setsukeian is also surrounded by lush woods, pine and cedar trees, mountain vegetables which Setsu san is an expert in picking them for snacks or to make dishes. I finally know how it is like to be among exteremely tall trees in the woods and the sound it creates when the strong wind blows... Walking along this little farm, seeing the fields, houses and the mountains, with the sound of the wind and strong rustling of the leaves, I feel I am in Hayao Miyazaki s anime. I finally understand how the character feels in his anime.

At the beginning of the short bridge to Sazae, leading to Setsukei-en

Setsukei-en is the last of the small coummunity of 12 families here. It is closest to the forest and with the freshest and cleanest water from the stream

Setsu san is a fantastic cook and I am so grateful that I am staying here with them, having healthy and tasty meals, with ancient rice in almost every meal. Ancient rice are expensive to be purchased in the market.

Kei san and Setsu san are both artists when they were younger. They settled here in the country side 18 years ago. Both love nature and the mountains. Setsu san is an established vine craft artist who uses tree vines and shape them into lamps, vases and interesting baskets. Kei san studied fashion pattern design and was in this field when he was younger.
Although they do not speak English fluently, they speak enough for WWOOFers to communicate with them. Kei san always have a dictionary next to him in the dining room, checking his dictionary if he is at a lost of how to communicate a word in English.

Everyday is interesting as I get to do different task at some times, learning different things. 

My friends and dear family, I am doing really well here... will share with you more tomorrow.. so much to share...

The forest is behind the house. I love the forest...will always remember in my heart the feeling of standing in the midst of tall cedar and pine trees, the sound of the forest and the wind

Ibusuki, Kagoshima...Warm memories

Ibusuki, Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu 
At Aki sans home and helping out in his kindergarten
20th April to 27th April


Coming to Ibusuki, this quiet and densely populated town, I finally met Aki-san. Pat has sent me a picture of him before I left Singapore. Thanks to her, I have this wonderful experience of great hosting from Aki-san and his family in Japan. He reminds me of Hayao Miyazaki, with his beard and stocky figure.

In fact, Aki-san himself is comical, speaks in a low husky tone, child-like at times. He speaks English quite well. He admires the work of Hayao Miyazaki too, seeing him as a genius. It does not take long to see that when I found a stone figurine of TOTORO near the entrance to his house. There is also a clock in the nursery room in his kindergarten which plays the music from TOTORO every hour.

Aki-san also loves owls. There is a large collection of owl figurines, paintings and carvings in his home. Ryoko-san his wife is chatty and warm. She speaks less English but somehow, we just manage to communicate with each other. To me, they are like my parents during my one week stay with them. I ask of him to let me help in his kindergarten, which is in his home compound too. 

It is a very valuable experience for me, to be interacting with the children in the kindergarten. They are of 3 years to 5 years old. Every day, they are excited to see me, coming to me and converse with me in Japanese. I will listen, nod my head though I do not understand what they say most of the time. Yet, they never stop coming to me. How pure and genuine children can be. Language is no barrier at all for me to connect with them, to laugh with them and to teach them some art activities.

There is a very strong emphasis on independence in the children here. Despite their tender age, every child will fold their own coat, unpack and pack their own bags, carry the tables and chairs together with each other, clear the dishes after lunch... I see teachers giving them lots of time to finish a task. The 3 year olds may have some difficulty in turning their coat properly after removing them, then folding them and placing them in their personal cubby holes, folding their mattresses and blankets, carrying them and keeping them. I am very impressed with how they managed on their own, with their tiny physique, folding a large blanket, carrying the mattress independently. The teachers never did everything for them. Instead, they will guide them, encourage them and give them time... time to make mistakes, time to finally get it right. It goes for every daily skills they acquire here. Teachers break each task into steps and simple words to help them remember.

The children has lots of play and interaction time with each other. I see team work in them when they build houses with large heavy plastic planks, keeping all toys and blocks when time is up, without fail. Naturally, there will be squabbles at times with some students. Sometimes, a crying child will come to me and started blabbering in Japanese about his or her peer who has been too rough, or not sharing the toy. However, when asked to apologise, both parties forgive each other quickly and played together again.

Each day, I start at the same time as the teachers, from 8 am to 6pm, have lunch with the children and teachers, a short break during the afternoon nap time as half of the children will stay back till 5pm. It is quite tiring but the childrens laughter and innocence just keep me going.

In Singapore, there is just too much emphasis on academic, even in most kindergartens. I also see that we do not give children enough time to do things by themselves, time to let them share their toys, time to make mistakes, to mess up and opportunity to learn to make it right. We are always rushing, rushing and end up doing most of the task for them, or expecting them to learn too quick. Children, when given time, will hand over the toy to their sibling or peer by themselves, willingly. That is also what my sister, Angelia allows for her girls.

The five days in the kindergarten have given me new perspectives...

On the fifth day, Aki-san had a little party in a traditional Japanese restaurant for all the staff, some parents and the leaders of the kindergarten. I really enjoy the evening, chatting with them with my hefty Japanese. The 3 main teachers I got to help in the 3 main classes have been really helpful towards me. I learn so much from them and they are very professional in their teaching.

On Saturday, Aki-san and Ryoko-san brought me sightseeing in Ibusuki, then driving all the way to Kagoshima in the late afternoon, had dinner together in the shopping mall in Kagoshima Eki before I took the overnight bus to Hiroshima. They really play the role of hosts so well, often asking if everything is ok with me, making sure I am happy.

Aki-san loves the beach and enjoys drinking shou-chu or rice wine. Ryoko san loves flowers and plants, visiting temples and cooking. Ryoko san loves to talk and Aki-san will always listens and acknowledges whatever she says. I hear them teasing each other quite often. They are a very cute couple in their early 70s. Aki-san asks me to bring my mother to his house when I come back to Japan again. Very hospitable and generous couple.

They also encourage me to reconsider going to China because of the flu epidemic.
Before we part, I assure them I will check on the situation as I travel in Japan. They ask of me to email them whenever I reach another destination. They are both very warm, funny and kind. After dinner, walking towards the parking lot, my eyes are a little teary. Akisan and Ryoko san gave me warm hugs before we parted. They are the only Japanese I know so far who shows their affection in this way.

Thank you Aki-san and Ryoko-san, for showering me with so much affection and care.
We will meet again...

I arrive in Aki-sans house on a Saturday. There were some children there as their parents were working. The 3 main classes beside the nursery are the 3, 4 and 5 year olds. Akira sensei and some of the children.

Aki-san with his shou-chyu.. Aki-san and Ryoko san. They and his son's family were really excitied when I gave them a red batik printed table cloth, each taking turn to wear as scarf or wraps.

The postcard with Marina Bay Sands. Aki-san shared he wants to go stay in Marina Bay Sands when he goes to Singapore again just before I pass him this postcard. Most Japanese I spoke to talks about wanting to stay in Marina Bay Sands.

 

Aki-san"s love of owls... every corner in his house compound, you can spot an owl.

The kindergarten entrance... see the Merlion statue on the right... it is a gift from their close Singaporean friend, Chiang Meng.

Art activities with the children. Thanks to the teachers support to translate my mostly English instructions. Also to my brother, Eng, who shares with me ideas to do with the children. The 5 years old...

They are 4 years old...

Making Koinomori, for the boys day

3 year old Nono-chan. The tiniest in class but a fiesty streak of independence.

Oito-kun. He steals my heart... stays by my side most of the time during morning play time.

The 3 year olds made whale origami and earth collage for Earth Day.

line-up of toothbrushes

I can do it!

At the party, with some of the teachers and parents.

With Akina sensei and Mayuko sensei

With Kensei-kun, their 5 year old grandson.

At the coast in Ibusuki...

The face towel from Ryoko-san. I used it immediately upon reaching Setsukei-en.

Aki-san and Ryoko-san, having dinner before we parted. I will remember this shot... Arigatou gozaimasu! Matta ne!